7 step foundation waterproofing

Diagram of 7-step foundation waterproofing solutionFoundationwaterproofing.org's preferred method of waterproofing foundations is second to none. While many foundation companies propose solutions that encompass some of the steps that are covered here, most do not implement the 7 step process that makes this the best available solution for damp or wet basements.

To make and keep your basement dry, look for the following 7 Steps:

  1. Excavate and power wash foundation
  2. Repair any damage to foundation and apply two coats of parging
  3. Add a footing bevel where the foundation wall meets footing
  4. Apply AquaBloc primer and apply BlueSkin waterproof membrane
  5. Apply Platon Membrane
  6. Install new weeping tile
  7. Backfill and grade property away from foundation.

Step 1 - Foundation Excavation Starts the Waterproofing ProcessExcavator begins waterproofing process

A combination of machine and hand digging allows access your foundation to begin the waterproofing process without any risk of damage to the foundation. Your contractor must excavate all the way to the footing to examine the existing drainage and the condition of the foundation wall and footing. Once the excavation is complete, power-wash the foundation to remove all loose materials and examine the foundation for damage.

Step 2 - Repair and Parge Foundation

Depending on the condition of the foundation, this step may vary. If there is any substantial damage to the foundation it will have to be repaired. After any damage is repaired, the contractor should apply 2 coats of parging. The parging provides damp-proofing and provides a foundation for the additional waterproofing layers.

Step 3 - Add Footing Bevel to the Foundation for Better Waterproofing

In addition to parging the foundation, ask the contractor to apply a bevel of concrete at the joint where the foundation meets the footing. This helps to seal up one of the most vulnerable parts of the foundation. This seam is often the source of water getting into basements.

Step 4 - Install Blueskin Waterproof Membranefoundation wall with waterproof blueskin membrane

Blueskin is a rubberized asphalt membrane laminated to a Polyethylene film. This combination provides a durable, waterproof barrier that is tough and flexible and can stretch to continue providing protection even if new cracks develop after the membrane has been applied.

After the parging layers have dried, a primer is rolled on and then the Blueskin applied over the primer. The priming layer provides the perfect surface for the Blueskin to adhere to and provides a small amount of damp-proofing on its own. Remember, the Blueskin is providing waterproofing not just damp-proofing.

Step 5 - Add a Protective Platon Membrane

After the Blueskin, the foundation should be wrapped in Platon Membrane which provides the first defense against water and provides physical protection to the Blueskin membrane. Platon Membrane is a tough, dimpled, 24-mil high-density polyethylene wrap that seals out water. The dimples provide an air gap behind the Platon so that any water that might get behind the membrane can drain down and won't be trapped between the Platon and the Blueskin.

Step 6 - Install New Weeping Tiles for Better Drainagefoundation with platon membrane

The next 2 steps in ensuring a dry basement are perhaps the most important: proper drainage and grading. It essential that when water flows down the Blueskin and Platon membranes that there is a system in place to carry the water away from the foundation. The age of your home will often determine the drainage solution that is available for your foundation. You may be connected to the city storm drain, a French drain on your property or to a sump pit in your basement. However, regardless of drainage solution, your contractor shouldl lay a new bed of gravel at the footing, install new window wells and drains if required, install new weeping tile and connect it to the drainage. The weeping tile has a “sock” that covers it to help filter out silt so that the pipe does not clog as quickly over time. Finally the new weeping tile is covered with clear gravel so that water can drain easily through it.

Step 7 - Proper Grading in the Important Final Waterproofing Step

After the waterproofing steps are completed, the excavation around the foundation is backfilled and graded so that there is sufficient slope around the house to encourage water to run away from the foundation. Keeping water from getting to the foundation is the first line of defence in keeping a dry basement.

7 Steps to a Dry Basement

By executing these 7 steps, you will have the best solution for a dry basement. Waterproofing your foundation is a significant undertaking and investment and you want to be confident that the work is done right and that the result will be a dry basement.


# Guest 2017-05-12 13:49

I need your advise on this. I just undergone to get my basement watter proofing.

The team didn't apply the Platon Membrane and New weeping tile.

They said the weeping tile is still good and if to change that they need to change the whole house weeping tile.

They just applied "BlueSkin waterproof membrane" and Backfilled.

I am concern if that is enough.

Please advise.

# Guest 2015-09-16 12:16
Hi, can we waterproof a ciment deck
( horizontal plan) with a blue
skin membrane?

# Guest 2015-09-14 12:15
in from some where throw any small hole. We are looking for hundred pro cent solution . Any Suggestion ..? Can blue skin apply on the tarp liquid ..? its dry but its little sticky.
Please help.
# Guest 2015-09-14 12:14
Hi ,
We have problem with our TDC duct which is going out side the building to the roof. We tried to seal the joints with Tarp liquid . but its still leaking. the water is getting in from some where throw any small hole. We are looking for hundred pro cent solution . Any Suggestion ..? Can blue skin apply on the tarp liquid ..? its dry but its little sticky.
Please help.
# Guest 2015-07-06 09:22
I am in the exact same boat water coming in between brick and foundation leak..and this is after blueskining and deltri the whole basement :s
# Guest 2015-06-30 10:56
We have water leaking into the basement between the brick and foundation which was recently parged. It looks like the water runs down the brick and then there is a small gap between the brick and parging and it runs into there. What would you recommend?
# Guest 2015-06-21 20:39
Do I need to use blueskin? If the platon is working properly, there shouldn't be any water sitting on foundation
# Guest 2015-06-22 14:08
Keep in mind that there are various grades of "Blueskin". It has come to my attention that some contractors use Blueskin SA but this is not designed nor approved for installation below grade. The manufacturer recommends Blueskin WP200 as the below grade foundation waterproofing membrane.
# Guest 2015-06-22 07:50
If your drainage is good and moving the water away from the footing as quickly as it gets there, then you probably don't need the blueskin. However, if you ever get any build-up of water at the footing, then the water level can rise up and the rising water will get behind the platon. That's when the blueskin comes in.
# Guest 2015-06-21 20:38
Do I need to use blueskin? Can I use platon directly on foundation? If the platon is working properly, there should t be any water slitting against foundation
# Guest 2015-06-22 07:48
If your drainage is good and moving the water away from the footing as quickly as it gets there, then you probably don't need the blueskin. However, if you ever get any build-up of water at the footing, then the water level can rise up and the rising water will get behind the platon. That's when the blueskin comes in.
# Guest 2015-05-15 21:41
Ok ... we are done putting on our Blueskin foundation wrap :-) and I want to add. You do NOT have to have a heavy/long nap roller, it will just soak up too much of the adhesive and you only get one or two swipes from it. We went through 3/4 of a 5 gallon container of it just using a heavy nap for just the front and 1/2 side of our house ... I think the company recommends the long nap because they want you to use more adhesive but it is expensive $275.00 a whack for a 5 gallon can of it. We had to buy another one to finish the house and we barely went through 1/2 of it ... soo only one can would have sufficed if we used a shorter nap (13 mm is what we ended up using and it worked fine) we started with a 19 mm and that was way too long and wasted ALOT of the adhesive. Live and learn but I just wanted to put that out to everyone so they don't have the same problem we did and will help others save money. But we did this ourselves and we did fine and saved a bunch of money doing it ourselves.
# Guest 2015-05-12 07:02
Question from Kim

Can you just use blueskin and backfill against that or do you have to have the black dimple plastic against that also?
# Guest 2015-05-12 07:07
Hi Kim,

I believe the manufacturer considers that acceptable. I like the extra protection of the dimple membrane over top of the blueskin because the dimple is tougher and will stand up to more abuse during backfilling. However, if you're backfilling with sand or something else that is clean and free from anything that might tear or damage the blueskin, then you're probably ok without the dimple membrane. Personally, I don't want to have to dig up my foundation more than once so for the little extra cost for the dimple, I add the extra protection.
# Guest 2015-05-11 14:40
I have Blueskin and Delta-ms installed but the Delta has a horz. joint (approx. 16" from the top of the wall) with the upper strip tucked behind the lower section of Delta MS. Is the Blueskin sufficient waterproofing or should the wall be re-excavated and Delta membrane fixed. I have received 3 suggestions, leave it as is, not critical, excavate out to 3 ft and fix, excavate out to 8 ft and replace completely. Any advise.
# Guest 2015-05-12 07:16
Hey Tony,

The top strip of the Delta should have overlapped the bottom to shed the water obviously but if the blue-skin is properly installed, it should be enough to keep the water out. I think I would do a risk analysis. What happens if there is a leak? Is it an expensive finished basement that will be damaged? If you know that the blue-skin is installed properly, I think I'd leave it as is and see if there are any water problems inside. If you want to be a little more confident, I think I'd only excavate enough to replace the top row of Delta. Full excavation seems like overkill to me.
# Guest 2015-05-13 15:34
hanks for the input. The manufacturer of Delta-MS has advised me that the real issue is that if and when ground water enters the joint between the upper and lower sheets that it will bring with it soil and silt. This will contaminate the weeping tile stone and worse it will fill up the air gap provided by the Delta membrane, stop any water draining properly and we will have wet soil against the foundation wall. Over time it will not allow the Delta membrane to perform as it is designed to do.
The only thing to do is to re-excavate the foundation wall down to the level of the joint and install a new upper sheet correctly.

# Guest 2015-05-10 22:15
Can blue skin be installed over a wood pressure treated foundation? Does it require primer too?
# Guest 2015-05-11 08:45
Hi Kerri,

I've never encountered that before. I would suggest checking the manufacturer's instructions. You might want to contact them directly.

In theory I would think that if the foundation was dry and clean, the blueskin would adhere but I don't know enough about wood foundations to know if there are other issues that might come up.
# RobertDavid 2015-04-07 13:45
Question from RobertDavid

Two part question. negative slopes towards the building.
Building constructed on concrete slab.
1) is membrane /blue skin necessary ?
2) Is it advisable to install weeping tile and French drain.?

Soil is sandy under slab and generally sandy loam surrounding building.
# Guest 2015-04-07 13:50
Hey RobertDavid,

I think with the negative slope toward your building, I would want to bring in someone with experience to look at it and assess the situation on-site. It's going to depend to some degree on how much area is collecting water and how steep the slope is and whether there are other contributing factors that will result in large volumes of water coming toward your building.

It sounds like it's time to rely on some local expertise.
# Guest 2015-03-29 15:18
There is a blue skin tape for the top u can use for the guy wondering how to seal top
# Guest 2014-11-05 21:04
do you have to seal the top of the blueskin membrane at the top of the foundation wall? I am worried water will seep in behind the blueskin membrane and in through the wall like before the membrane was in place?
# Guest 2014-11-06 07:04
If the wall is prepared properly and the blueskin is installed correctly, I don't think you should have any problems. I haven't heard of water getting behind properly installed blueskin. The blueskin is incredibly sticky and when the wall is clean and primed, the blueskin really sticks. Then with the pressure of the ground against it, it would be hard for anything to get behind. Also, you want to make sure that the ground is graded away from the house so there shouldn't be any water pooling by the foundation at the top of the blueskin.
# Guest 2014-05-08 06:31
WOW juѕt what I was lookіng fߋr. Cɑme here by searching fоr foսndation
# Guest 2014-05-03 13:31
Awesome website! We have a 1974 bungalow located on the River, which is in a 100 yr flood plain. The house sits higher than the rest on the street but did have 6 inches of water in the basement this spring due to the long winter in the ottawa area. My husband and I want to be better prepared and have been reading a lot. We are wondering if the 7 step process you describe is enough or should we do the trench inside for hydrostatic pressure. The majority of the water came in through our garage located in the basement, which we know is a dumb design for our location so we are changing that issue and regrading driveway, but we did have seepage from hydrostatic pressure in the floor. If we do the 7 steps to the outside, regrade the driveway, do we need the interior trench system for the hydrostatic pressure in the floor? We know the walls need to be done with the blueskin as the second greatest spot for water entering was the footing area in the basement. Or could we pour a new floor on top of our existing floor to thicken the floor in the basement (I read in someone else's' post that they need to pour an 18 inch slab doubt ours is that thick based on 1970s technology)? Thoughts?
# Guest 2014-04-30 07:14
I'm worried that if I use both blueskin as well as a Platon Membrane the nails from the Platon will penetrate the watertight seal created by Blueskin.

Is this of concern?


# Administrator 2014-04-30 07:20
Hi Bryce,

According to the makers of Blueskin, it seals around nail penetrations. http://henry.com/airandvapor/nonpermeable/blueskinWB

Also, the platon membrane is usually only nailed quite high up, so unless your water table is really high, the water won't be where the nails are.
# Siegfried 2013-09-18 11:09
Hey Rob,

I'm not familiar with that product but from what I can see, it does sound very similar.

I haven't tried applying blueskin over tar so I can't be sure what will happen. Blueskin is incredibly sticky so I would expect that if the tar is thoroughly cleaned, removing any dirt and dust and then primed properly, it would stick. I'd suggest you check their Web site for more technical details or contact one of their sales reps which can be found at: http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/template.cfm?page=/contact_sbm/sbm_contact.html&did=11&sid=33

Good luck with the project
# Rob 2013-09-18 11:07
-Grace construction products, bituthene 400 membrane seems to be very similar to blueskin. Is this also a recommended product (seems to be more available in long island , NY area? The specs and standards when researched where comperable.
-My foundation wall is block for about 2' down from the surface, then slab, then poured foundation wall, then footing.(techni cally slab on grade, but ground level is a little higher on this wall) The block has old tar on it down to the poured foundation wall, and down to the footing in one section. Can membrane stick over this old tar? The suggested parge coat would not stick well over the old tar, correct? Removing all the tar would not be possible...
+1 # Mary Jane 2013-06-16 15:18
When installing new weeping tile and waterproofing the basement walls, is it essential to dig up all the way around the house? The house in question is very close to the neighbours and the walls are maybe 12-18" apart in one area along that side. Weeping tile properly installed with a grade to drain to a pit shouldn't need to be one continuous piece surrounding the whole building to work properly. Am I missing something or is the contractor correct with this?
Love your website, great info here.
Thank you.
# siegfried 2013-06-11 07:20
Hey Bryan. Part of me says you should put in the sump pump because at some point you'll probably need it. The other part of me hates to put a hole in the basement unless is absolutely necessary. If you put in a sump pump where there is a lot of water, then you can be sure you'll always need a sump pump. If your waterproofing job is impecable the basement may stay dry without it. Are you able to connect your weeping tiles to a city storm drain? It's a more expensive option but preferable in my opinion. I've also wondered about installing a submersible pump outside. Basically build a well right beside the foundation and put in a pump with flexible piping so you can pull it up later for servicing. If it's deep enough, it should be below the frost line and not freeze and this would mean the water doesn't have to come into your house. This also means if the power goes out and the pump stops working for a while, you don't have all the water coming directly into your basement. This isn't a common approach, I've only read about it once or twice but I think it's worth considering.

You're doing a full blueskin around your foundation so it sounds like you're off to a good start. Make sure it's fully adhered everywhere before backfilling. I'd talk to some local experts to get their thoughts as well. A lot of building inspectors are able to offer constructive advice on what they've seen in the area. If you plan for the sump pump but don't put it in, you can add it later without too much trouble (just don't plan on finishing that part of the basement right away and make sure that you have weeping tile installed so that it's in place if you do decide to add one later.

Definitely get more opinions from local experts and good luck with the project.
-1 # Bryan 2013-06-10 21:01
Hello. Thx for the great info here. We are bldg a new house where the water table is very high and are also in a flood prone area. We are required to build a home with an 18 inch slab to give weight to the home and to resist the hydrostatic pressure. We are also doing a full Blueskin solution along the entire bottom and sides of the foundation for $20K. Not cheap! Question is, do we still need sump pumps even if the entire foundation is wrapped up like this? Any other thoughts or considerations? Thank you.
+3 # siegfried 2013-05-29 10:34
Hi Ann,

Draining the sump onto your sidewalk isn't ideal. You don't say what georgraphic region you're in but in Ottawa, your sump can still be pumping when it's below zero outside which means you'll be coating your sidewalk in ice. The water is relatively warm coming out of the ground but once it's on the surface, it will freeze on a cold day. In general, it's better to pump it out onto a grass or gravel area well away from the house where some of it can soak into the ground and the rest can run off onto the street.

Legally, I'm not sure I like the idea of having one sump in one house. What are the legal repercussions if the sump in your basement fails. It also means all of the water is in your basement if it fails so you get all the damage.

Some cities allow you to hook your sump to the sewage line but many do not.

Putting in just the weeping tiles with gravel may help to distribute the water around the foundation which may help it to disappate faster and therefore not leak into the house but if it doesn't lead somewhere, you may not be solving the problem.

If you're going to excavate, the weeping tile is a small amount of the cost so definitely do this.

Hope that helps.
+1 # siegfried 2013-05-29 10:27
A question from Ann.

I am living in a townhome (one of 6) and one of my neighbours has leaking in her basement which apparently comes from my side. The foundation never had weeping tiles (we know this for a fact). It was suggested that we waterproof and add weeping tiles (o.k. so far) and that one of the units put in a sump pump to which some of us can connect (some would but some will not).

My question: the sump pump would have to drain onto the sidewalk then out to the street. Is this o.k. because I read somewhere that Mike Holmes does not think so? This is highly stressful if only because the money is adding up and if some of us connect to this sump pump we will legally need to set up an agreement . Can we just have the weeping tiles with the gravel all around and leave it at that? Do we need weeping tiles at all especially since some units will never agree to link to my tile on the right? Next year we must look at the back of the unit with the same issues and problems. Thank you for any advice. Ann
-1 # siegfried 2013-05-24 15:01
This same approach works for cinderblock as well as poured foundations. The photos on this site were taken from a cinderblock foundation job.
-1 # Charlene 2013-05-24 10:58
What if your nature foundation is cinderblock?
-1 # Josh 2013-04-07 05:38
Excellent break down.... I had a couple questions though... For weeping tile should I use rigid PVC or "Big O"? If big O would you recommend the socked version or use the perforated with landscaping material wrapped around all the crushed stone layer? Also when back filling do I need to compact the soil? If so how much should I backfill between compacting? Thanks a lot!
# siegfried 2013-04-05 20:35
Hi Shelagh,
You've got a pretty serious waterproofing challenge on your hands. If I were you, I'd call some local experts to see what they would recommend.
First, you want to make sure the ground around your house is graded away from the house so that water isn't being channeled back to the house and make sure you have eavestrough all the way around and your downspouts are away from the house. Then, take a look at the pumps you were using. There are huge differences in how much water each of them can pump. Higher volume pumps tend to cost more but will do a better job in a high volume situation.

The "inside wall trench" method is what Atlantic Basements does. You may want to check that out but I wouldn't say that that is the only solution. If the walls are waterproofed with blueskin, and there is weeping tile to carry the water quickly to the sump pump(s), and you have high volume pumps to keep up with the flow, that should be enough to stop water coming up through the floor.
# Shelagh 2013-04-05 14:57
We live in the country in a 40+ yr old house with natural stone at the front and brick at the back with crumbling stucco below the stone and brick. Additionally, we live on a limestone plain. We had a flood last fall during an unusually high rainfall because there is no soil to absorb the water and our 2 sump pumps were overwhelmed. The water outside the house rose very quickly and caused enough pressure to force its way in.
It will happen again. I will spend the money on water proofing the outside walls of the foundation but what can I do about the floor of the basement? In a response to another question you mentioned a trench around the perimeter of the floor that directs the water into the sump...but if our sump pumps were overwhelmed would that even help?
# Rob 2013-03-24 04:47
I'm on a slope and my brick house is built on sandstone,
To water proof between the brick and footing could I cement a spoon drain then black jack then black plastic then a French drain?
# siegfried 2013-01-19 08:37
The dimple membrane doesn't usually run all the way over the clear gravel. Adding filter fabric over the gravel will help to extend the functional life of the weeping tile and help keep roots out of the gravel. I look at it that adding the filter fabric is a small cost compared to the total job and it won't hurt and will likely help in the long run.
# Don 2013-01-18 22:29
Great article thanks.
One question, am I seeing there that the dimple plastic is running over the clear gravel and weepers?
If not would you put filter fabric over the 3/4 clear gravel
Before you backfill?
Thanks don
# Gaveet construction 2012-11-02 18:13
Wow, great article, I really appreciate your thought process and having it explained properly, thank you!
# Administrator 2012-08-27 22:06
Jim, it depends on the type of membrane that was applied. The dimple membranes like Platon help water to shed down the wall and away from the foundation, but if there is no place for the water to drain away from your foundation, then the water level will rise up and get in behind the membrane. However, if you use an adhesive membrane like blueskin, it is more waterproof and the manufacturer claims it can withstand hydrostatic pressure, so even if the water can't run away, it shouldn't get in behind the membrane if it was applied properly.
# Jim 2012-08-27 17:55
I recently hired someone to waterproof a basement wall. I was not able to be there when the work was done. He says he went all the way below where the footer and the wall meet with the membrane. I am still experiencing a leak between the footer and the wall, and there is a considerable leak about 18" up from the floor and 18" in from one corner where there was a hole in the foundation. This hole now literally squirts water out onto the floor. The contractor says it is water getting behind the membrane. Should this even be possible? I would think if he did what he says he did that would not be possible. He claims his membrane covers the entire wall and footer and is sloped out away from the basement wall at the bottom.

# Administrator 2012-08-27 11:00
I think concrete would be the most obvious material for the bevel but if it wasn't done when the foundation was poured, it can be difficult to add it later. I'm not sure what else you would make the bevel with.

Wrapping the blueskin all the way down and over the footing where the bevel would have been will probably also accomplish much the same thing as the bevel.
# Alex 2012-08-18 01:38
Silly question but does the footing bevel need to be concrete? Is there an easier / cheaper method?
# domenic 2012-06-10 07:20
hi, my builder installed the blue skin and it is filled with air pockets and not tight in the corners. it is also peeling off in many sections. he says 'dont worry its fine, the dirt holds in on, you wont have any problems". Should i be concerned with this?
# Bob 2012-04-18 14:41
Question... Can you install the blue skin directly over the existing or new layer of tar?
# Siegfried 2012-02-28 15:12
Rachelle, building near the water makes me very uncomfortable. I would ask your builder what kind of water-proof guarantee he is providing for the basement. Blueskin or not, your house isn't a boat. Water is insidious and can get through the smallest crack.

The blueskin membrane is supposed to give you the waterproof layer that is required where there's a high water table. You may still need a sump pump to keep the water from coming up through the floor of the basement and if you do, make sure you put in at least two pumps and one pump with a battery back-up.

Adding the Platon over top of the blueskin adds a physical protective layer which is not be necessary but is one more layer of insurance. Platon alone does not work against a high water table. Since it is not sealed to the foundation, it can not keep water out if the water table rises above the footing. The water level will rise behind the platon and it's not doing anything then.
# Siegfried 2012-02-28 14:59
John, the problem with the black-stuff is that it provides some protection but isn't as robust as the blueskin. If the wall cracks the blueskin will stretch and keep the water out of the crack, but the black tar will eventually dry out and won't stretch over a crack. The result is that water can get in.

The footing area may be the most vulnerable because the walls are poured after the footings are dry so there isn't a continuous connection between the wall and the footing but by putting blueskin on the whole foundation you have a continuous waterproof membrane from top to bottom. No place for the water to get through or behind the membrane.
# Rachelle 2012-02-28 08:49
I am building a house near the water and the water table is high. We want to use a blueskin waterproof membrane. We we're not told to use the platon membrane also. We we're told to use one or the other, and we're highly recommended to use blueskin.
# Rachelle 2012-02-28 08:47
We are building a house near the water and the water table is high. I want to put a waterproof membrane like blueskin. But no one has told me to add the platon membrane also. I was told to use one or the other only.
+1 # John 2012-02-07 15:47
My builder installed the membrane system just over the footings. He had only painted the black stuff (not sure what you call this) on the foundation walls. Is it needed to install the membrane on the foundation walls?
# RYan 2012-02-05 17:45
Step 7 doesnt say at what height the lot should be graded to in comparison to blueskin...
same height?
2" higher?
# Siegfried 2012-02-03 19:40
I don't have any experience with stone foundations but I would say that it depends on how flat the surface is. If it has been parged over then blueskin may adhere ok. You can probably attach the platon membrane but I'd suggest you get an expert with experience with stone foundations in to look at it.
+1 # Joseph 2012-02-03 12:31
Would you use this product on an old (1820-1830) stone foundation? Why or why not?
+2 # Administrator 2011-09-20 17:37
Leanne, the concrete bevel is a nice-to-have but not essential. I think I'd run the blueskin all the way down to the footing and into the corner of the footing and the fall. It can't hurt for sure.

I'm not sure what you mean by foundation coating. If you mean parging, then yes it should be parged.
# C Moa Bob 2011-09-15 06:54
Great breakdown and runthrough, thanks!
-1 # Leanne 2011-09-12 23:09
We don't have the time or extra money to do the concrete bevel. Would you recommend using foundation coating in the joint between the slab and footing, or just the blueskin primer? Should we be using foundation coating underneath the primer?